Wynyard is a real specialty coffee find in a little-known South Melbourne laneway.Wynyard Street is not much more than a service lane off the St Kilda Road side of Clarendon Street, but the tiny street is home to homewares retailer Made in Japan and, next door, Wynyard, a specialty coffee brewer that’s sister to the more front-and-centre Giddiup in Coventry Street.
Wynyard channels a little Japan in the clean lines and light colours of its timber-and-tile interior styling, and the feeling that you’ve happened on a Tokyo back-street coffee hole is helped along by the presence of barista Nana Sakamu working the La Marzocco and the pourover station in crisp white shirt and dark barista apron.
Some careful pourover work produces a nice cup of Kenya Kathakwa AA brewed at a cool 90C: clean and vibrant with stewed stone fruit sweetness. (Single Origin’s tasting notes: red currant jelly, stewed peach, ruby grapefruit grilled with brown sugar.)Just as much care goes into a short black of an Ethiopia Chele Lektu – some tasting leads to a little tweaking before the weighed shot is served with a big, ripe, fruity Ethiopian aroma, a creamy mouth and lots of sweet, complex fruit.
The seasonal brunch menu is compact and creative: summer 2015–2016 offered a breakfasty burger of bacon, egg and potato hash with avocado and relish; lavish pastry French toast with honeycomb labna; and smoked mushrooms served with haloumi and walnut and parsley pesto. For lunch it will be hard to beat the pork belly tortilla with a summer tomato salad, although roesti, bratwurst and sauerkraut with cauliflower puree on toasted sourdough will go close.
Where 1 Wynyard Street, South Melbourne, phone (03) 9690 9285
When Mon–Fri 7am–5pm, Sat–Sun 8am–4pm