Market Lane channels a timeless Melbourne mood at new Collins Street cafe

Market Lane Coffee’s new Collins Street cafe is a lovely spot for a filter, an espresso and a mouthful of almond jaw from cult North Melbourne baker Beatrix.

Market Lane Coffee Collins Street

Tessellated floor tiles and a dark timber bar echo Portland House’s Victorian origins’. Photo: the Coffee Cities Project

It’s the tactile details that make Market Lane Coffee’s new Collins Street venue one of downtown Melbourne’s loveliest specialty cafes – Trent Jansen Tidal chairs are ranged on the footpath with woollen throws to soften the wire-frame seats; filter coffee comes in hand-made porcelain mugs from Japanese designer Yumiko Iihoshi’s Un Jour range; and the interior by Hearth Studio evokes an early-20th century Melbourne mood that fits the Collins Street address with cool greens, tessellated floor tiles and plenty of dark timber for the bar and the booth seating.

The coffee is the familiar Market Lane offer: their seasonal single origin for milky espresso brews, maybe a blend of Brazil Bahia Sempre Viva and Mamani Family from Bolivia: tasting notes – dark chocolate and plum, with a rich mouth feel.

Market Lane Coffee Collins Street

Brazil Sao Judas Tadeo – delicate acidity, full and round. Photo: the Coffee Cities Project

A short black of Sao Judas Tadeo from Brazil has fruity plum and raisin. It’s a full, round coffee with delicate acidity that highlights Market Lane’s user-friendly  approach to roasting and brewing specialty coffee – just make it delicious, please.

Three or four single origins feature for V60 filter brews that are equally approachable (and delicious).

The Rwanda Cyimpindu – coffee grown by a small group of farmers in Rwanda’s west and processed at the Karengera washing station – is juicy and full, with sweet citrus acidity and a dark chocolatey finish. A Brazil Airumá is fuller, nuttier and honey-sweet.

Market Lane Coffee Collins Street

Pastries from Noisette, killer cakes and biscuits from Beatrix. Photo: the Coffee Cities Project

For a bite choose from a small selection of Noisette pastries, plus cakes and biscuits from cult North Melbourne baker Beatrix: hard to beat is the almond jaw, a caramel-sticky shortbread-chewy thing, though the lamingtons are loveable, too, filled with home-made jam and rolled in flakes of toasted coconut for a twist on a Melbourne cafe classic.

Market Lane Coffee

Where 8 Collins Street, Melbourne, no phone
When Mon–Fri 7am–3pm
Food ★★★☆☆
Coffee ★★★★★


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